Chemical Hair Dye

      I started coloring my hair when I was about 17. I didn’t full-on dye my hair, but I periodically painted in big chunky highlights, as was the style around that time (care to guess what year I’m talking about?). I had always had sandy blonde hair, but as I got older, it got darker until it was a rather dull dishwater shade. Then, quite frighteningly to me at the time, it started to turn RED. The last thing I wanted was to look any more like my little brother, Boo:

      So I did what any typical American teen does, and I turned to the rainbow array of boxes on the drugstore shelves. While I eventually grew to love the natural reddish brown shade of my hair, I was completely addicted to the shine and pop of boxed color, so for a couple years I was dying my hair a few times a year with a shade as close to my natural color as I could find. Which, looking back, is just a sad example of buying into meaningless and contradictory cultural dictates.

      When I gave up shampoo, it became apparent to me pretty quickly that all the nasty, useless chemicals and endocrine disruptors in shampoo were also in just about every other cosmetic product I used as well. I’ve already written on swapping out cosmetics for natural, typically single ingredient products like using coconut oil as a moisturizer and hair product. But it also occurred to me that hair dye, of all the chemicals in my bathroom, had to be one of the worst. Just the fumes and the arm-long list of small print warnings it comes with were enough to tell me that. Not to mention the advice of both my doctors and midwives that I should I avoid it during pregnancy even though it hasn’t been conclusively proven to cause birth defects, yet.

      And if for some reason all that hadn’t been enough to convince me, there was the small matter of my baking soda rinse washing all the chemical color out of my hair in about 2 weeks.

      While my hair has always been quite a bit lighter at the bottom than at the roots, I’m pretty sure the chemical dyes were responsible for exaggerating the difference in hue from root to tip of my hair. My hair was its nice, dark reddish tone at the roots which faded into a blah sort of mousy brown and eventually ended up blonde at the tips. Really, it wasn’t that bad, but I still wasn’t thrilled with it.

      Lucky for me, while researching No ‘Poo, I came across this excellent homemade beauty products site singing the praises of henna.

Henna

      Now, if you’re like I was when I first discovered henna on Hilda Blue, you have been lead by the hair dye industry to think that Henna is some sort of terrible concoction that only hippies use because it does bad things to your hair. While it is true that many box dyes claiming to be henna, or containing henna as one of many other chemical ingredients often can be very bad, henna, just henna all alone by itself, is NOT bad, and is actually very good for your hair.

      The Henna I’m talking about is a plant, lawsonia inermis, the leaves of which, when dried and ground into a powder, can be used as a wonderful and effective hair coloring treatment.

      Now, there are a few things you need to know about Henna before you dive in:

1)  HENNA WILL ONLY DYE YOUR HAIR RED  –  There are a lot of products out there claiming to be henna that will dye your hair other colors – those are not true, pure henna. There are, however, other plants that can give you other colors – indigo for black, for instance. There is a lot more information on these other plants on Hilda Blue and Henna for Hair. That said, there are ways to dye your hair a variety of colors with plant based natural dyes. Henna for Hair has a ton of mixtures for that.

2.)  Henna is GOOD for your hair. Regardless of the color aspect of it, I love the way my hair looks and feels after I henna it. It is soft, shiny, and just overall very healthy. Many people use an herb similar to henna but without the dying properties (Cassia Obovata) to treat their hair just to get these benefits.

3.)  Henna takes longer and is (arguably) messier than chemical hair dye. It has the consistency of mud and I leave mine in for 3 – 4 hours. But it is worth it.

4.)  Henna is MUCH cheaper than box dyes.  You can get very high quality pure Henna powder online for $13.00 a pound, which would be enough to do my hair at least 10 times. I buy mine from a local bulk style herb store (I requested they order it, and they were happy to), and just a couple dollars worth has lasted me 8 months.

5.)  Henna is truly permanent. The pigment particles from the plant penetrate deep into the hair shaft, they do not simply coat it like most chemical dyes. I’m told this also makes it excellent at covering greys.

6.)  Rinsing Henna down the drain won’t harm local wildlife and drinking water the way washing the chemicals from box dyes will.

7.)  If you use pure, high quality henna with no chemical additives, it WILL NOT react with chemically treated hair.  It is only the fake boxed “henna” mixes that produce negetive reactions because they often contain metallic salts.  Pure henna is just the ground leaf of the plant and will not produce those reactions.

      So, are you sold on Henna yet? I was in about 3 minutes, but I spent a number of days researching it before I took the plunge. In my opinion, the site Henna for Hair is the best out there for Henna information. It has everything.  Part of the reason I’m not putting too much “how to” detail in this post is because Henna for Hair has it all covered, including how to incorporate other herbs and ingredients to get different colors. You can also order high quality henna from the site, though I haven’t. I also haven’t been compensated in any way or asked to plug either Henna for Hair or Hilda Blue; they are both simply great sites.

Personal Experiences

      The first time I tried it, I did a basic, pure henna mix. Henna powder and lemon juice (and a little vinegar because I ran out of lemon juice – you just have to mix the henna with something acidic, lemon juice being the most common choice). Let sit for 12 hours and then apply. While I liked the results, my hair was just a touch brighter than I really wanted it, so since then I have done 2/3 henna, 1/3 indigo – roughly, I just eye everything.

      I mix up the henna with the lemon juice until it’s a sort of sticky mashed potatoes/thick yogurt consistency and let it sit, covered in plastic wrap at room temperature for 12 hours. The mix is brightish green to begin with, but as it sits just the very top layer turns brownish, the underneath stays green. Again, check out Henna for Hair for detailed directions and pictures of all this.

      When I’m ready to apply, I mix up the indigo powder with water until it is the consistency of mashed potatoes, then I mix the two mixes together – the henna and the indigo (some people do the two treatements consecutively, but I get results I love mixing them together). This gives me a nice bowl of greenish mud.

      I put on gloves and put the mud into my hair one section at a time until I have a very thick layer of the henna goop all over my hair. Don’t be stingy, you can’t put it on too thick.

      I wrap that up in plastic wrap (or something similar and more environmentally friendly) to keep in the moisture and heat.  Chill for 2 – 6 hours depending on how strong you want your results and how receptive your hair is to coloring. Since there are no yucky harsh chemicals, I don’t have to worry about burning my hair or anything like that. Keep in mind that henna (and indigo) will also dye skin if left on for some time, so wear gloves and wipe any stray goo off ears, forehead, neck, etc.

      Once time’s up, I just thoroughly rinse in the shower.  No washing or conditioning necessary since the lemon juice cleanses and the henna conditions. Bam. Beautiful hair.

      One thing to keep in mind is that the Henna color will actually continue to develop for three days, so you won’t see your final color until day 3 after application.  I find the interim period very amusing. The first time I did it, I had amazingly bright clown orange hair the day after I treated it. I wish I had a picture of it. The final color, though is always pretty close to what I want – natural looking but bright and shiny. Using the indigo, my hair is usually almost black until the henna fully develops. This is why I usually apply my henna on Friday evenings. One cannot wear a Marine uniform with clown orange hair.

      Just like my new shampoo free lifestyle, I am completely in love with henna (and indigo).

      Through the writing of this entire article, the feminist in me has been prodding and goading me, whispering in my ear that I am bowing to norms set by an unhealthy and unforgiving media by coloring my hair at all; that is absolutely true. It is also true that I am far from perfect, and while I try to buck a lot of the more ridiculous or harmful norms set by our society, at the end of the day, I like the way my hair looks with the henna. I’m sure one day I will stop all together – probably once I start the progression to becoming a white-haired crone. Until then, I’ll just try to keep my vanity from exposing me to too many carcinogens and endocrine disruptors.

Have you ever tried henna (real henna, not the boxed stuff) or any similar herbal dyes/stains?

Have any questions for me?  I’m far from an expert, but I’ve been doing this for almost a year now.

If you do (or have) tried it, please share some pictures on my Facebook Page!

This post was originally writen for Lucine Biotechnology. 

The post Henna Hair Color: Beauty Needn’t Burn appeared first on Urban Earthworm.

Neither shampoo nor conditioner have touched my hair for nearly 8 months. Perhaps the phrase “dirty hippie” comes to mind, but honestly I don’t think my hair has ever been cleaner or in better condition (the hippie part is probably true).

In December 2011, I became aware of some controversies surrounding the chemicals used in cosmetics.

Turns out, unsurprisingly when you really think about it, that there are all sorts of disagreeable chemicals and toxins in the cosmetics with which we routinely coat ourselves and our children. While I focus mainly on shampoo and conditioner in this article, it should be noted that these chemicals are found in nearly all standard cosmetics and in addition to giving up shampoo and conditioner, I have also switched to a number of single ingredient options for personal care including coconut oil as a moisturizer and hair product, fair trade unsweetened cocoa powder as a dry shampoo (for dark hair, arrowroot powder can be used or mixed in for lighter hues), herbal insect repellant, and a number of others.

There are a variety of chemicals hiding in your cosmetics under labels such as “fragrance.” The number of nasties that can sneak in and not even be mentioned because they are part of a “fragrance” is scary. Of all these sneaky compounds, three of the most worrisome are parabens, phthalates, and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES).

Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)

There has been some back and forth on the actual hazards posed by SLES. There are differing camps on whether or not the substance is carcinogenic or not; but the fact most experts seem to agree on is that it is an irritant to the skin and eyes, and that it absolutely should not be ingested. So why the heck is it in nearly every single cosmetic product (not to mention other products), including ones that go on your skin, can easily get in your eyes, and go in your mouth? Because it produces bubbles. It is an absolutely unnecessary ingredient that is also an irritant. I don’t care if it doesn’t cause cancer, why would I put that on (or in) my body? Or on/in my children’s bodies? And this stuff is everywhere. Check the labels in your bathroom. You might be surprised by its prevalence.

Parabens and Phthalates

Parabens and phthalates are a little more worrying because they are both proven endocrine disruptors, meaning they can, and do, interfere with your body’s hormonal balance. Phthalate exposure has been proven to contribute to infertility and poor sperm quality in adult males and the feminization of male babies when their pregnant mothers are exposed. And that’s just the beginning of the spectrum of problems that can be caused my phthalates, not just to us, but to the environment they are now saturating.

Parabens can be equally alarming. Also endocrine disruptors, parabens are believed to bind with estrogen, interfere with testosterone, and lower sperm counts. They have also been associated with breast cancer.

The most frustrating thing about all this scary stuff in all these products we use every day? It’s utterly and completely UNNECESSARY. Marketing and mainstream media have lead us to believe that we need to shampoo our hair every day, to wash with bubbly soaps and foamy toothpastes, and slather ourselves with all sorts of concoctions and potions promising results we know we will never get. I mean, let’s be honest; I can soak in a tub of beauty products up to me ears for 6 months, and I’m still not going to look any more like Zooey Deschanel when I get out.

No ‘Poo

So I gave it up. I went No ‘Poo (which I still feel is a very unfortunate, if completely appropriate moniker for the movement). I squirreled away my assortment of half used shampoos, conditioners, and body washes in the little black hole beneath the sink, and stirred up some concoctions from my kitchen. Please check out my first post for a little more about the recipes I tried and the research I did on them.

I went through a bit of a greasy phase, a side effect of having used shampoo. The chemicals you put on your scalp and body send your body signals that change the way it functions. In this case, my shampoo had been telling my scalp to produce more oil because 1) it was routinely being mildly irritated by my shampoo, and 2.) every time it produced a little oil, that oil was immediately stripped away so it just produced more and more and more. This is by design. If your shampoo makes your scalp produce more oil, you’ll be more dependent on your shampoo. If your moisturizer makes your skin drier when you’re not wearing it, you’ll wear it more. If your chapstick dries out your lips, you’ll re-apply. And so on ad nauseum.

The greasy phase, however, was not nearly as bad as I feared it would be, and was easily remedied with wearing my hair up or in messy beach waves a lot, or with a little “dry shampoo” (fair trade unsweetened cocoa powder and/or arrowroot powder).

In March, about 3 months after I quit shampoo and conditioner (among other products), I woke up one morning and my hair was awesome. I realized there was virtually no grease until I had gone at least three days without shampooing (or gone for a really good run, and even then it was minimal). My hair was soft, manageable, and fuller than it ever had been. Not only that, but it was super shiny, too! A welcome side effect of the apple cider vinegar (ACV) which closes up the hair cuticle. And my hair has been that way ever since.

Recipes

There are a lot of different concoctions one can try when going No ‘Poo, but the basics – the very reliable standard – are a baking soda rinse to wash followed by an ACV rinse to condition. Other common wash ingredients include lemon juice and cucumber (see my last no ‘poo post for more on those). Other kinds of vinegar can be subbed for ACV and there are a few things you can add. It’s all very customizable, and you should experiment to find the right mix for you. I did a lot of monkeying with the dilutions of the baking soda and the ACV as well as with possible additives.

I use a mixture of about 1 ½ tbsp of baking soda to 20 oz of water (I put mine in a sports bottle for easy application in the shower) for my wash.

For the conditioner, I use about 1/3 – ½ cup of rosemary infused ACV (recipe below) to 20 oz of water. In dry weather, I also add about 2 tsps local, organic honey.

I don’t usually let the baking soda sit in my hair. I massage it in and rinse it out. I put the ACV through the length of my hair and let it sit for about 20 seconds before working it into my roots and scalp. I rinse it out after a few more seconds.

Concentrations and amount of time you leave the products on your hair will vary from person to person. I came to these standards after a number of adjustments.

Other Benefits

In addition to all the health benefits, there are very impressive financial and convenience reasons to make the switch. If I were buying one bottle each of mid-priced shampoo and conditioner per month (which is a conservative estimate – I usually bought a little more pricey and a little more often since there were 3 people using shampoo in our house) at about $9 per month for the pair, I would have spent about $72 so far this year on just those products. A gallon of ACV is about $5, and since I only use about ½ a cup a month for my hair, I’ve spent about $1.25 this year on the ACV I used in my hair and have been able to use the rest of the gallon for the millions of other things I use vinegar for (cleaning, etc). The rosemary is free in my garden. A 4lb box of baking soda (if you get name brand, which I don’t) is $2. I use roughly 1 oz per month for my mix, meaning I’ve spent about $0.62 on baking soda for my hair so far this year. I’ve spent about $1.87 on washing my hair this year. Beats the heck out of $72 or more. And I use both the baking soda and vinegar on a ton of other things, so I save even more buying them in bulk.

The environment also benefits from that much less chemical laden residue being washed down the drain.

For more ways to replace chemical laden cosmetics with simple, real products most people already have around the house, check out Lucine’sKitchen Cosmetics.

Hello, my name is Amanda, and I have been shampoo free for almost 8 months.

Rosemary Infused Vinegar

I am a huge fan of rosemary for many, many purposes. Among the myriad powers of the hearty plant is the fact that it is very good for your scalp. Rosemary infused oil treatments (usually olive or coconut oil) are often recommended to stimulate hair growth, health, and shine. Unfortunately, I just don’t have time to give my hair regular oil treatments. I’ve tried, and I so far have failed to fit it into my schedule. Enter: Rosemary Infused ACV a couple times a week as part of my regular cleansing rinse.

Since I store most of the things I make in 16 oz jars, I make about 16 oz of infused vinegar at a time, which makes 3 – 4 batches of rinse after it is mixed with water (after it is infused).

1. “Rough up” about three 4-5 inch rosemary sprigs by rolling them between your hands or gently battering them on a cutting board. If you plan on using any of this vinegar for eating (it makes a great salad dressing in addition to its hair benefits), do not include any woody stems. Since I make batches specifically for my hair, I leave the stems in.

2. Heat 16 oz of ACV in a small pot until it begins to steam. DO NOT boil it. There should be few to no bubbles, just some steam.

3. Add the rosemary to the hot vinegar for up to 10 minutes if desired. Pour into a jar. Store in a dark, moderately temperate place (like under the sink, in my case) for 14 days.

4. For use on hair, pour 1/3 to ½ a cup of the vinegar into a 20 oz container; fill with water.

Note: You can use any kind of vinegar for this (I don’t recommend balsamic if it’s going in your hair), but I like ACV since it’s a little more muted than white vinegar.

This article was originally published on http://www.lucinebiotech.com.

Additional resources:
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20381602
http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/HBI/29/
http://www.organicconsumers.org/articles/article_8128.cfm

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